Press the button, nothing. Tug the strap, stuck. A roller shutter that won’t go up can stall your morning and risk security. Whether it’s an electric motor affected by the heat or a manual strap that’s jumped the reel, the cause is usually close at hand, most days.

The good news: many faults are quick wins—power off at the isolator, a bottom lock left on, grit in the guides, dry tracks, or an overheated motor. With a few safe checks and silicone spray, you can free the curtain without forcing it—often without special tools.

This guide walks you through fixes for electric and manual shutters: quick checks, cleaning and lubrication, manual override use, and what to do when Adelaide heat or wind is the culprit. First up: stay safe and identify your shutter type.

Step 1. Stay safe and identify your shutter type (manual or electric)

If your roller shutter is not going up, start with safety. Don’t force a jammed curtain; keep fingers out of the guides and support the bottom bar if it’s part‑open. For electrics, switch OFF at the wall isolator or breaker before touching the headbox/pelmet. Use a stable ladder and safety glasses if you’re working at height.

• Electric shutter: Has a wall switch or remote, often a nearby isolator, and a manual override eye/hex in the pelmet.
• Manual shutter: Uses a strap/cord winder box on the wall, a crank handle, or a spring with key-lock bottom bar.
• Not sure? If there’s no switch/remote and you see a strap or winder box, it’s manual.

Knowing the type keeps you safe and points you to the right fixes in the next steps.

Step 2. Try these quick checks first (locks, obstructions, gentle lift)

Before tools or sprays, run through these fast fixes. They solve many “roller shutter not going up” issues caused by simple oversights. Work smoothly and don’t force the curtain—if something resists, stop and move to the next check.

• Release all locks: Make sure bottom-bar key locks, centre locks, or side shoot bolts are fully undone.
• Clear obstructions: Check both guides for stones, screws, leaves, or dented spots catching a slat; remove debris you can see.
• Free a caught slat: If a slat edge or end-cap is snagged, gently ease it straight so it re-seats in the guide.
• Gentle assist: While pressing the switch or easing the strap, lift the bottom bar a few centimetres to unstick the first movement. Don’t heave.
• Break paint/seal stick: If recently painted or hot weather fused the seal, run a plastic card along the bottom edge to free it.

If it’s still jammed, move on to cleaning the guides.

Step 3. Inspect and clean the side guides/tracks

Dirty or damaged guides are a top reason a roller shutter is not going up. With power isolated (for electrics), check both tracks from top to bottom. You’re looking for grit, screws, leaves, or a bent lip that’s grabbing a slat. Don’t force anything—clean and straighten lightly, then test.

• Brush and vacuum: Run a soft brush and vacuum down each guide; wipe with a dry cloth.
• Remove snags: Take out stones/screws; feel for dents catching a slat.
• Re-seat a slat: Lift slightly and guide the edge back into the channel.
• Retest: Support the bottom bar and try again.

Step 4. Lubricate correctly (use silicone spray, not grease)

If cleaning hasn’t freed a roller shutter not going up, lubricate the contact points. Use a silicone-based spray—avoid grease or heavy oils that attract dust and gum up tracks. For electric shutters, isolate power first. You want a light, dry film on friction points, not a soaked curtain or motor.

• Light-mist the guides/tracks: Spray, then wipe so only a thin film remains.
• End caps and guide inserts: A short burst where the bottom bar runs.
• Accessible bearings/pivots: Only if visible inside the pelmet—go sparingly.
• Avoid motor/brake and slat faces: Keep spray off electrics.
• Cycle and wipe excess: Run up/down, then remove any residue.

Step 5. Electric shutters: check power, isolator, breaker and remote batteries

Power loss is one of the most common reasons an electric roller shutter is not going up. Before touching the pelmet, confirm the shutter actually has power and the control is working. You’re just tracing the power path from wall isolator to switchboard, then confirming the remote isn’t the culprit.

• Wall isolator: Ensure it’s ON; some have an emergency stop. Toggle OFF/ON once.
• Switchboard: Check the circuit breaker/RCD hasn’t tripped. Reset once only; if it trips again, stop.
• Outlet/plug (if fitted): Make sure the plug is seated and the outlet is live (test with a lamp).
• Remote batteries: Replace with fresh batteries and try again within close range.
• Receiver/switch lights: Look for any status LEDs to confirm the control has power.

Step 6. Electric shutters: reset an overheated motor and test the wall switch

If your electric roller shutter is not going up after repeated use or hot weather, the motor’s thermal cut-out may have tripped. Don’t keep pressing the button—let the motor cool, then try a controlled reset and test from the hard-wired wall switch to rule out remote/control issues.

• Power-cycle the supply: Turn the isolator or breaker OFF, pause, then ON to reset the controls.
• Use the wall switch: Test UP and DOWN; remotes can mask receiver faults.
• Listen for clues: A hum/click suggests the motor has power; silence points to power/switch/receiver or a motor still overheated.
• Stops or slips: If the motor runs but the curtain doesn’t lift, stop—likely a jam or internal drive issue.
• Trips again quickly: Reduce friction first (clean/lubricate guides). Persisting trips need a technician.

Step 7. Electric shutters: raise it with the manual override crank

If your electric roller shutter is not going up despite the checks above, use the manual override to open it safely. Most motors have a small hex “eye” for a crank handle, usually in or through the pelmet. Work slowly; you’re turning the gearbox by hand, so isolate power and support the bottom bar as you go.

• Find the override: Look for a plastic grommet/hex socket and use the supplied crank.
• Isolate power: Switch OFF at the isolator/breaker before cranking.
• Turn gently: Rotate in the lift direction; if it binds, stop and re-check guides.
• Have a helper: Guide the curtain in the tracks and keep fingers clear.
• No power tools: Don’t use a drill—gearboxes can be damaged.
• Before restoring power: Remove the crank and ensure the area is clear, then test.

Step 8. Manual shutters: fix a derailed strap/cord or jammed cable

On manual shutters, a strap/cord or steel cable can derail from the pulley, leaving the roller shutter not going up. The remedy is to slacken the curtain, re-seat the line on the drum, and ensure the strap lies flat.

• Open the pelmet if accessible; don’t force a jam.
• Hand‑roll the curtain up to create slack; re-seat the strap/cord/cable onto the pulley/drum.
• Check the strap sits flat in the wall winder; re-thread if twisted. Close up and test gently.

Step 9. Manual shutters: replace a broken strap or winder box

A snapped strap or stripped winder leaves your manual roller shutter not going up—stuck down. Replacement is straightforward: fit a new strap/winder and re-seat it on the drum. Work gently and copy the original winding direction.

1. Remove the wall winder; secure the strap and note routing.
2. Open the pelmet (drill out pop rivets) to reach the drum.
3. Fit the new strap onto the pulley in the same direction; close the pelmet.
4. Thread and wind the strap into the winder, re‑mount, and test slowly.

If the drum binds or access is tight, call a technician.

Step 10. Realign bent slats or a skewed bottom bar

If the roller shutter not going up keeps stopping or racking to one side, the curtain may be skewed by a bent slat edge, a missing/damaged end‑cap, or a bottom bar that’s out of level. Work gently—small tweaks fix most misalignments; heavy creases or cracks usually need a slat replacement.

• Isolate and support: For electrics, switch OFF at the isolator. Support the bottom bar to take weight off the guides.
• Level the bottom bar: From outside, sight the bottom bar. If one side sits lower, lift that side a few millimetres to re-seat both ends in the guides.
• Check end‑caps/slat edges: Make sure plastic end‑caps are present and seated. Re-seat a slipped cap and ease a lightly bent slat edge straight by hand or with a timber block. Don’t force a creased slat.
• Replace damaged slats: Badly kinked/broken slats should be unclipped and slid out, then replaced with matching profiles/colour.
• Retest and observe: Run short up/down cycles. If it skews again, look for guide damage (Step 3), excess friction (Step 4), or move on to motor limits (next step).

Step 11. Check and reset motor travel limits (advanced)

Travel limits tell the motor where to stop at the top and bottom. If they drift, the motor may stop early, overrun, or your roller shutter not going up may stall a few centimetres from fully open. Only attempt this if you can safely access the pelmet and identify the limit controls.

• Isolate and access: Switch OFF at the isolator, open the pelmet, then restore power for testing. Keep fingers clear of moving parts.
• Find the adjusters: Most tubular motors have two small screws marked UP/DOWN or +/− (on the motor head or control module).
• Adjust in small steps: Turn the UP/+ limit a quarter-turn to increase opening travel, then test via the wall switch. Repeat as needed.
• Don’t overrun: If the curtain hits hard stops or the tube keeps turning, back the limit off immediately.
• Electronic limits: Some models require a programming sequence—if unsure, stop and call a technician.

Step 12. Weather-related issues in Adelaide (heat, cold, wind) and what to do

Adelaide’s heat, cold snaps and gusty winds can all make a roller shutter not going up. Heat can trip thermal cut‑outs and make seals tacky; cold stiffens rubbers; strong winds can rack the curtain in the guides. Treat the cause first, then test gently.

• Extreme heat: Let the motor cool, shade the pelmet, avoid repeated cycles, light silicone on guides/seals.
• Cold snaps: Warm the room, free the bottom seal with silicone, don’t force movement.
• Strong winds: Avoid operating in high gusts; fully open or fully close and lock.
• After storms: Clear debris from guides, re‑lubricate lightly, then retest.

Step 13. When to call a roller shutter repair pro in Adelaide

If your roller shutter is not going up after these steps, some faults are risky or need specialist tools. A local technician will diagnose quickly, carry common parts, and set limits correctly—saving time and preventing damage.

• Breaker/RCD trips again: Power issues or shorted motors—stop DIY.
• Motor hums/clicks but won’t lift: Possible failed capacitor/gearbox or jam you can’t see.
• Thermal cut-out keeps tripping: Excess load or failing motor.
• Manual override won’t turn/binds hard: Gearbox or curtain jam risk.
• Strap/cable snapped or frayed; winder stripped: Needs proper replacement.
• Severely bent slats/bottom bar; curtain out of guides at top: Safety risk.
• Limit programming unclear/inaccessible: Avoid guessing.
• High pelmet or shopfront access: Ladders/boom and safe isolation needed.

Pros can replace motors, straps, and slats, realign tracks, set limits, and fully test—fast and safely across Adelaide.

Step 14. Preventative maintenance to keep shutters running smoothly

Prevention beats repair. A few minutes of care reduces load on motors and winders, stops grit chewing slats, and avoids the roller shutter not going up on hot Adelaide afternoons. Add these quick habits to your regular clean and you’ll keep things moving.

• Clean guides: brush, vacuum and wipe dry; remove stones/screws.
• Use silicone, not grease: light spray on guides/end caps.
• Inspect slats and seals: realign or replace damaged parts.
• Check straps/cords and winder screws: replace at first fray.
• Protect motors: avoid repeated cycles; let them cool before retesting.

Wrap up and next steps

That should do: most jams yield to safe checks, clean tracks, silicone, and simple power resets. If you’ve worked through the steps and the shutter still sticks, hums, trips, or the strap is damaged, don’t force it—prevent bigger damage and call in help. We cover all Adelaide suburbs with fast response and no call‑out fees, repairing motors, straps, winders and slats, and setting limits right. Book your repair with the local experts at Roller Shutter Repairs Adelaide and get your shutter moving today.